Challenge of the 9 Dragons: The Mekong Delta by Mountain Bike - Saigon to Phnom Penh
Itinerary
Day 1: ARRIVE SAIGON
Arrive Saigon and check into hotel. In the afternoon there will be a welcome briefing and a chance to prepare the bicycles. Dinner at a local restaurant to get a first flavour of Vietnam. Overnight Saigon. [D]
Day 2: SAIGON ~ GO CONG ~ BINH DAI ~ BEN TRE [80 km]
Early rise ready for departure by bus at approx. 0530. We will be heading out of the city to the south east and even at this early hour, you will see the streets already thronging with traffic - most two wheeled. Stop for breakfast at Go Cong - it should now be about 0715. This is where our Challenge of the Nine Dragons begins. From here on the vehicle with your luggage will shadow us as near as possible but, since we will be following small roads, paths and tracks, the car will not be able to accompany us all the way.
The route begins by following the road for 5 km until we reach the Ben Do Chua ferry across Mekong tributary number 1, Cua Tieu. Once across we turn right along an unsurfaced road, past the market at Phu Dong and after just 14 km we come to the second tributary, Cua Dai. Depending on our progress, we may need to charter a boat to bring us across this one if the ferry schedules do not fit. The second river traversed we turn north and follow a canal that runs parallel to the river.
Look out for the many "monkey bridges" -- single bamboo poles to walk across with hand rails rigged on either side. After a further 13 km we come across a new dam which cuts the third tributary -- not completed when we made our recce -- but we continue on alongside the river following the tow path until after a further 12 km we emerge onto a surfaced road for the 36 km run into Ben Tre, crossing two bridges and the third of the Mekong Deltas, Cua Ba Lat. On arrival, check into the hotel for the night, dinner at a local restaurant. Lunch will be at a local restaurant en route. [B, D]
Day 3: BEN TRE ~ BA TRI ~ THANH PHU ~ TRA VINH [77 km]
0630 departure from the hotel heading south, across a bridge in the centre of town onto the island that separates Cua Ba Lat and Cua Nam Luong. The road is a red dirt road passing farms and through many small villages. En route you will see various cottage industries such as rice wine distilling and rice paper manufacturing. We then take to single track paths through the coconuts, hopping numerous irrigation channels and cycling through the back yards of small holdings. We will no doubt pass students on their way to school, pedalling bolt upright, the girls in their white Ao Dai traditional uniform.
The first ferry crossing (Ben do Phuoc Mai) is after 14.5 km and is a 5 minute crossing. As we cycling we will pass a coconut factory and a rice husking mill, and will see sugar cane growing on both side of the road. We will also pass a small temple and a Khmer pagoda. After the town of Ba Tri and 49 km since leaving Ben Try we will finally cross Mekong delta No 4, Cua Nam Luong. 10 km further on we conquer no. 5, Cua Cho Chien, this one a 45 minute crossing, and then another 10 km to Cua Cung Hau, this one a 25 minute boat ride. From the landing point it is now just a 7 km cycle ride along small paths to the centre of Tra Vinh and the Cuu Long Hotel. Dinner and overnight. [B, D]
Day 4: TRA VINH ~ TRA CU ~ SOC TRANG [86 km]
0630 departure. Today we start out on a comfortable surfaced road. after 20 km we pass a Khmer temple on the right hand side where we can pause for a breather and meet the young novice monks. 1.5 km further on we turn off the main road and follow 1 m wide concrete paths along canals and irrigation channel through rice paddies, passing a school and crossing several small bridges. After a further 28 km we come to Tra Cu. Turning right at another Khmer pagoda and following an unsurfaced road we come to the seventh Mekong delta, the Cua Dinh An after a ride of 65 km. Here we load the bikes onto a boat and embark upon a 1 hour crossing of both the Cua Dinh An and the Cua Tranh De, the 8th delta, passing between the narrow island that separates them by way of a canal. Once across it is just 20 km to Soc Trang. [B, D]
Day 5: SOC TRANG ~ KE SACH ~ PHUNG HIEP ~ CAN THO [97 km]
0630 start. On today's ride we take a left shortly outside town and set off along a dirt alongside a canal. after 19 km hang a right onto a small path with takes us through Khmer villages and past a rural pagoda. The path then rejoins the main road but after a short distance we take to the paths again, following the waterways across rice farming territory. Some of the route follows dykes, some passes through longan orchards. again you will see many small cottage industries in progress, pass several schools and leap frog many waterways. Finally passing through a market at Cau Phuoc Hung we emerge onto the road into Can Tho for the final 12 km run in to the centre. As a reward we will stay at the 4 star Victoria Can Tho, complete with swimming pool. Dinner at a popular local restaurant overlooking the river. [B, D]
Day 6: CAN THO
Full day free from cycling to explore Can Tho and surroundings. In the morning there will be a boat trip to visit the colourful floating market at Cai Rang where traders but and sell everything from fresh produce to steaming bowls of noodles and plastic kitchenware from boat to boat, ladies standing aft with crossed oars, often using their feet top row. the return journey to the hotel will take us along narrow canals and past a farm where one of Asia most popular vegetables is cultivated - a type water hyacinth often translated in to English at "morning glory" which actually grows on the water surface. You will see farmers steering their boats through the thick layers of green, selectively harvesting to ensure continued production. Afternoon free to lounge by the pool, wander around town or to pedal out and explore. There is one great cycle ride to be done on the other side of the river which follows narrow paths through the communities that have developed on the river bank but, due to the removal of one bridge, we were unable to include it in our route. Overnight at the Victoria Can Tho. [B, D]
Day 7: CAN THO ~ O MON ~ LONG XUYEN [107 km]
Morning vehicle pick-up from Victoria Can Tho hotel, drive the short distance to Binh Thuy Bridge to avoid cycling in the heavy Vietnamese traffic. Turn left, passing a traditional old house often featured in Vietnamese films and TV and right again into a small path, over Rach Cam bridge and passing through local villages. Cycle along small canals, often skipping over small hump-backed bridges, to O Mon (25 kms). From O Mon, continue turn left and cycle to Thoi Lai, Co Do, Bang Lang (58 kms). From Bang Lang, vehicle pick-up and drive to Long Xuyen for overnight at Hoa Binh hotel. [B, D]
Day 8: LONG XUYEN ~ NUI SAP ~ RACH GIA [77 km]
Morning cycle from Long Xuyen town to Nui Sap following minor paths (38 kms). Continue to cycle from Nui Sap to Canal E through small villages (14 kms). Taking ferry to other side of Tan Hiep town. Vehicle pick-up and drive to Rach Gia. At the welcome gate of Rach Gia town, slowly cycle (big road) to the town centre and FINISH POINT at Hero Nguyen Trung Truc's Statue. Then transfer to hotel for overnight. [B, D]
Day 9: RACH GIA ~ HA TIEN [c.100km]
From here to the border is yet to be surveyed so detail not yet complete. Follow the coastline road with diversions down tracks and trails and along the sea shore to Ha Tien.
Day 10: HA TIEN ~ KEP [c, 50km]
A scenic ride, punctuated with a border crossing through the newly opened international border point, to Kep. Before the Khmer Rouge period when Cambodia was one of the bright lights of Asia, this seaside resort was lined with the villas of the rich, including the Royal Family. Badly damaged in the fighting between the invading Vietnamese and retreating Khmer Rouge forces, many of the villas show the scars. But now Kep is enjoying a revival with many of the old houses being restored and converted into boutique resorts. The Seafood is memorable! Overnight at the Veranda.
Day 11: KEP ~ KAMPOT [c.60km]
One of the most scenic and quintessentially Cambodian of provinces, our ride will take us through lush rice fields between towering karst limestone hills. There are temple caves to visit and the rural charm of Cambodia will instantly make its impression on you. Overnight at the simple but charming riverside home of a French expat with his Cambodian wife, Les Manguiers.
Day 12: KAMPOT
Full day free to enjoy this beautiful setting on the riverside. Cycle the short distance into town, featuring some of the finest examples of faded French colonial architecture remaining in Indochina. There are several charming bars and cafe's to enjoy. Alterntaively take kayaks out onto the river for some paddling amongst the mangroves, or explore dusty trails around the area on your mountain bikes. You can also swim in the river and lounge in hammocks strung along the riverbank.
Day 13: KAMPOT ~ TAKEO
Our ride now takes us northwards through rural Cambodia countryside, characterised by the many sugar palm trees that dot the rice fields. Some of the ride will be along the main roads... which in any other country would appear to back lanes... but we will take diversions through the rice fields following tracks and trails and visiting small farming villages. Overnight at the best available local hotel in Takeo.
Day 14: TAKEO ~ PHNOM PENH
Similar to yesterday but getting busier as we approach the capital. On arrival at the Aussie-inspired Billabong hotel, clean up before our farewell dinner at a local restaurant and drinks around the swimming pool.
Day 15: DEPART PHNOM PENH
Breakfast and then free until departure or onward journey.
ENDS